Vieux Carre

23 10 2009

We had a penthouse view of Gramercy Park.

Legend has it, this is the only private park in Manhattan. And we had the key.

Well, Barry had the key.

Across from the park, on the Westside, was the apartment. A four-story walk-up, the stairs got narrower as you climbed. The place was quaint with a kitchen, bedroom, living room and bathroom; all the esstentials for a bachelor pad.

The owner was on vacation in Germany. He was a speechwriter for the President of one of the local colleges and his book collection was quite impressive.

He and Barry agreed to do a home swap, which is quite common, so I’m told, in academia. One condition was that Barry look after the cats.

Come to find out, there were other conditions, but we’ll get to that later.

The cats were shy at first, but became easily seduced once the cat nip was located.

Barry let it be known that he had work to do while in the City and old friends to see. But he was adamant about seeing theater. Together, we scanned the papers and read the reviews. There was a little-known work by Tennessee Williams playing in the East Village that caught our attention.

‘Vieux Carre’

Williams has long been a favorite playwright of mine. He stories of the Old South, particularly New Orleans, ring so true. Many times in my past jaunts into the Louisiana bayou did I find myself in situations that Tennessee had so vividly described in his writings.

picture-Tennessee-Williams

Barry arranged for the tickets and we met three of his friends at the theater — Norman, a young actor and his artist girlfriend, Mary, who hailed from Wales and Mr. Christopher Berg, an older fellow from the Bronx.

The show was sold-out. It was a small theater, maybe 200 seats tops, and the crowd was primarily of senior status.

Some of the actors were already on stage as the audience filed in. It felt like we were a part of this French Quarter boarding house and that intimate atmosphere was something I had not experienced in a theater setting in a long time.

Christopher and I really enjoyed the show. Barry not so much.

“I thought it stunk,” Barry said.

Afterwards, I managed to get the director’s autograph and relayed my sincere appreciation for his efforts. My accent gave me away and the director smiled and thanked me for attending.

The five of us then headed for a nearby Spanish tapas eatery, Norman had highly recommended. The food was really good and the conversation free-flowing enough for Mary to invite us all back to her studio for drinks.

I bought a cigar on the way and Barry picked up a case of beer.

Mary said her building was once the home of the Ukrainian embassy. Inside her studio were large scale paintings and photography. She was most certainly a visual artist, but also very humble of her work.

Mary informed me of her ties to the South, having family in Tennessee. I relayed to her my fondness of the British Isles and how adorable I found her accent.

After a few drinks, Barry, Christopher and I called it a night. Minutes after saying our goodbyes, Barry received a call from Norman on his cell phone.

“So, Mary is Not your girlfriend,” Barry said in a voice loud enough for all to hear.

Why Norman felt the need to get that point across was beyond me. Nevertheless, Barry had arranged for Mary to drop by the Gramercy pad the next day to take some photos in the park.

We parted ways with Christopher at the subway station. He gave us both a big hug. Christopher was a nice man, very tall, bald and he wore distinguished purple-framed glasses.

We would see him again.





Touchdown New York

21 10 2009

Every visit to New York has come courtesy of the friendly skies. Always landing at La Guardia, the small airport in Queens.

And sometimes it can take longer to get from Queens to Manhattan than from Atlanta to New York. Nevertheless, there are plenty of people waiting outside the terminal gates willing to assist you.

If you can afford it, a cab is probably the way to go. Or if you really want to impress, there’s always the limo service.

I took the Super Shuttle and for 12 bucks was promptly deposited in front of Grand Central Station. Once inside, I made my next important purchase…the Metro Card. I was to rendezvous with my friend Barry later in the evening as his flight was arriving from the West Coast through JFK.

Barry and I met on the internet of all places, thanks to an obscure website called Couchsurfing. He had arranged for our accomodations for the first week and then he was scheduled to leave for France and a hike through the mountains near Toulouse.

“A left-wing radical from the 60s,” is how Barry referred to himself. He had been in the trenches during the Harvey Milk years and often spoke with distain about the country in which he lived.

He called Berkeley home and said, other than New York, he had no desire to visit any other part of America..much less Florida.

“My father lived in South Florida before he died,” he revealed.

Barry was many years my senior and I enjoyed his company. We spoke on the telephone several nights before scheduling this trip.

I looked forward to our chats, often taking place during my graveyard shift at the Bayside, when the fiddler crabs would crawl out of their holes and scurry toward the lights around the main office.

“You’re being exploited,” Barry declared when he found out how much I was being paid to stand guard through the night.

Apparantly, eight bucks an hour is well below the minimum wage in San Francisco.

We decided to meet in Union Square in the village, where at night, the kids from NYU would congregate. I arrived first and sat on the steps watching the skateboarders show off their moves.

Barry showed up about an hour later, wearing a professor-like blue blazer, plaid shirt and  jeans and carrying way too much luggage.

During our phone chats, Barry’s voice conjured images of Mel Brooks.

“You’re a deep one, John,” he told me.

This was flattering, coming from an academic from the Left Coast.

Barry asked why I remained in North Florida, where the obstacles were so great. He wanted to know why I remained in relationships that didn’t work and why I had left the security of a newspaper job with a recession taking hold.

All good questions.

During the course of our week together in New York, I think Barry got those answers and I too learned more about my long distance pen pal.

He asked if I could help him carry one of his bags and together we left Union Square for Gramercy Park.

“We have to feed the pussies when we get there,” Barry reminded me, referring to two cats inside the apartment that he had managed to secure through the same website where we had met.

“Can you help me feed the pussy cats, John?,” Barry asked.

“Of course,” I replied.

“They need lots of attention, those pussy cats,” he said.

And so did Barry.





On to Mobile

19 10 2009

The Greyhound goes West before it goes North.

From the Panama City station, we pulled out shortly after 5 on a Sunday evening. The bus was nearly full and it would get fuller as we made several stops before my switch in Mobile, Alabama.

Alabama. The Heart of Dixie. This is where I received my college education.

Those were the days.

Flash forward some 20 years and here I am riding the bus with all of my worldly-belongings stuffed into a bag in the seat underneath me.

Looking around, there wasn’t many clean-cut professional types on this particular route. In fact, there were some pretty hardened criminals on board. This I noticed before boarding in Panama City. Seems the ol’ Hound is how some law enforcement agencies elect to transfer their folks…in bright orange jumpsuits, of course.

Riding along was a healthy dose of our country’s rising Hispanic population. The bus is their means of transportation as well.

Occasionally, a baby would cry and there was spurts of chitter-chatter among some of the passengers. One man spent a good 45 minutes running down the people of Bay County.

“Pay County!,” he declared. “That’s what they should rename that place.”

I got the impression, instantly, that this man was glad to be getting away. He wasn’t the only one.

As we passed through Panama City Beach — where the construction boon during the Bush years transformed this sleepy Southern outpost into a major player on the vacation circuit — the man became more irate.

“Overbuilt,” he decried. “Look at all those empty condos.”

Although he was sitting across the aisle, I did not wish to engage this man in his commentary. His head was a little too shaven for my taste. He looked like the kind of person who was steadfast in his convictions. And plus, he seemed really angry.

We picked up more passengers the closer we got to the Alabama line. Thankfully, the angry man got out in Pensacola. His seat taken by a young lady with a carefully constructed appearance.

She smiled and pulled out a tube of lipstick from her purse.

I went back to reading my book. The bus driver reminded everyone that we were bound for Mobile and if anyone wanted to stay in Florida they had better get off now.

“Where ya headed?” the young lady asked.

“New York,” I replied.

“Oh.” She seemed surprised. “Why?”

“To find work,” I said, trying not too sound too friendly as I very much wanted this conversation to end. Must keep my guard up, I thought, for it will definitely be needed in the City.

Her interest piqued and her confidence bolstered with a fresh tint of makeup, the girl didn’t want to stop talking.

“I’ve never been to New York,” she said in an admittedly cute backwoods drawl.

I continued to read my book.

She got the hint.

The layover in Mobile was five hours. Utter boredom. There would be no stops on the drive to Atlanta and I slept the entire way. I was the only passenger to get out at the airport.

I was leaving one demographic and joining another.

Onward, must press onward!





‘Greyhound First,’ John

18 10 2009

“Wait a minute!…Wait a minute!!, John!,” she said.

“You have to tell them how you got to New York.”

Holley was right and that menat a Greyhound story.

The bus. The dirty dog herself.

You see, I got a real cheap airfare out of Atlanta to New York..but finding a ride to the airport was tougher than I had figured. Most of my friends declined this request.

So, with the car long gone, my only choice was the bus. And what a ride that turned out to be.

Normally, it takes about five hours to get from Panama City to Atlanta via automobile. On the Greyhound, for $35 bucks and change, one can make it in just under 14 hours.

Here folks is where the fun begins.





The Dream

18 10 2009

I decided to go to New York during my brief stint as a desk clerk at the Bayside Inn. I needed a challenge.

And boy, did I get one.

Working at the Bayside was easy and as close to a “no-show” Mafia job as it gets. I handled the graveyard shift, which basically meant checking the pimps and prostitutes into their rooms and making coffee.

It was a job well below my education, life-training and previous work experience.

So I left. Saved up the money, bought a one-way plane ticket to the Big Apple and was determined to make it in the big leagues.

Ha!

What I got was another education. A street-wise one. Truth be told, I am lucky to be alive to write about it.

I lived on the streets for a month…with all my worldly belongings stuffed into a Ben Sherman tote bag. It rained almost every day I was there. Nothing like sloshing through the concrete jungle in damp clothes.

Ben's Bag

Ben's Bag

Parks were like an oasis. A chance to rest. My shoulders were sore. My feet hurt and my back ached. But something kept me going.

That something was “the dream”…. America.

But in the Summer of ’09, with the whispers of another Great Depression engulfing the country, “the dream” was  quite elusive.





Birthday Reflections

17 10 2009

During tough times you learn to appreciate things that you so often took for granted before. Expressions of love, genuine good-will and sincerity.

My birthday included all those, mostly summed up in two words: Happy Birthday.

The words came from those close and far away. Even Dad telephoned his well wishes.

After dinner, I took a walk around the fantasy town known as Rosemary Beach with a close friend. The cool autumn breeze is beginning to roll in.

My friend said I had many more ‘Happy Birthdays’ ahead of me.

I hope he is right.

There is a time in everyone’s life when you feel as if you are damaged beyond repair. It is uniquely human.

Battling back from that place is tough, hard and, at times, can feel like an impossible task.

This is when your faith is tested. Faith in mankind, faith in yourself and faith in God.

For 37 years, I have struggled with this faith. My anger and frustrations reached a boiling point during the summer in New York City.

Soon, I will tell you about the Summer of ’09 and as a disclaimer, you must know it will be raw, real and uncensored.

Are you ready my loyal readers?





GQ pitch

16 10 2009

This week I wrote a query letter to the Editor-in-Chief at GQ.

If nothing else, this provided some sense of accomplishment. I pitched my story, inserted a cute photo and said a little prayer before dropping the letter in the mail.

The hook is the airport. Like it or not, this is a big deal here….a major undertaking and a shift in the region.

I am reminded of a quote from the great President Theodore Roosevelt: “Conservation means development as much as it does protection.”

Will a fashion magazine be interested in this story?





PFLAG Parents

14 10 2009

Closing in on my birthday.

Good ol’ No. 37.

Opened mail from Wachovia today. The money those bankers spent on postage and paper was more than what’s in my account.

Whhhhhatever.

On the bright side, I had the pleasure of attending a PFLAG meeting tonight. And yes, I sincerely mean pleasure.

I haven’t been around so many supporting women since college when the Kappa Deltas nominated me to be their pledge class sweetheart. I lost that campaign, of course. Seems some of the young ladies took exception to my preference for smokeless tobacco.

But back to the PFLAG meeting. It was a warm and friendly environment. Stories and personal testimonies shared within a circle of understanding and compassion.

No one’s perfect. But all are accepted.

I listened closely to the mothers and grandmothers in the room, wondering about my own mom, who I haven’t spoken to in well over four months.

Truth is, mom was talking to me tonight…right there in that circle.

Interesting how family dynamics change when you get older. Birthdays were once a time of yearning for lavish gifts and lots of money.

This year I’m just hoping for acceptance.





Don’t tase me bro

13 10 2009

According to my “agenda” here from the Greater Bay Chapter of the Amercian Civil Liberties of Florida, a “Taser Death” discussion was held Monday night at the ol’ barbeque place in Panama City.

Where was the local media?

Where was the Sheriff or, at the very least, someone representing his Office?

Heck, for that matter, where was the ACLU’s own “staffed attorney” from that bustlin’ city that birthed Gideon v. Wainwright?????

Come on people…. get with the program!





Lost and Found

11 10 2009

In July of 2008 I lost my job.

In August of 2008 I lost my grandfather.

In October of 2008 I lost my mentor.

In March of 2009 I lost my car.

In June of 2009 I lost my way.

Through these losses, I have found humility. And it is humility which I must never lose.