Coming to My Senses in Canada

17 08 2026

It was the summer of 2026 when I finally let River go.

There was no ceremony to it, no last conversation in which everything was explained and the scales were somehow balanced. Life rarely gives us endings that clean. What remained instead was the knowledge that I had spent three years trying to understand someone who had hurt me, as though understanding the hurt might somehow make it hurt less. I kept looking for the explanation that would turn cruelty into confusion, indifference into damage, damage into something I could forgive.

For a long time, I told myself he might not know what he was doing. Perhaps his aloofness was an act, some private wound behind it. Perhaps he simply couldn’t see what his behavior did to another person. Was my compassion generous, or had it become a hiding place?

Eventually, there was only one fact left that I could no longer explain away: he didn’t care. That realization arrived quietly. I began to understand that my patience had become permission. Sometimes wisdom consists of knowing when the generous interpretation of another person has become an ungenerous interpretation of yourself.

I had people around me who understood this before I did: friends who had traveled their own versions of this road, coworkers who expected more of me than I was expecting of myself, and David, my husband, who had been right more often than I wanted to admit. They had watched me make accommodations for behavior I would have told anyone else never to tolerate. Sometimes hope is the enemy.

Now that I had ended it, I needed distance. Distance from River, certainly, but also from the version of myself that had remained standing at the same locked door, waiting for it to open. I rediscovered my best self in Canada.

Our trip to Vancouver did not begin auspiciously. The train was three hours late, and by the time David and I arrived it was after midnight. At the border came the familiar questions.

“Why are you coming to Canada?”

“Where are you staying?”

“How long will you be here?”

“How are you leaving?”

There was nothing particularly menacing in the questions, but there was a chill to the exchange, the bureaucratic suspicion of two tired men arriving after midnight with luggage and an explanation. Then I mentioned that David and I had come up from Portland for Pride. Something in the officer’s face changed.

“Enjoy your stay,” he said.

And we did.

Vancouver seemed to rise out of water and glass. Towers caught the shifting northern light while mountains stood beyond them, enormous and indifferent. The harbor moved constantly—freighters carrying the serious business of commerce, sailboats and yachts carrying the less serious business of pleasure. Everywhere there seemed to be green: forests climbing toward the mountains, parks opening unexpectedly inside the city, trees reflected in the blue-gray water.

Stanley Park sea wall

David and I settled into the rhythm that marriage often teaches you. Our differences became less something to overcome than something to use. I pushed him to walk farther than he wanted. He indulged my determination to dance late into the night in a cocktail lounge overlooking the harbor. We ate well, talked to strangers, bicycled through Stanley Park and watched a city celebrate Pride without appearing to apologize for its happiness.

Travel inevitably produces the question: “Could we live here?” Vancouver was a yes.

In some ways it resembled Portland: the mild wet climate, the devotion to green space, the proximity of water and mountains, the particular Pacific Northwest conviction that civilization and wilderness can coexist within sight of each other. But there was something else in Vancouver, something harder to photograph. There was a sense of joy.

I don’t mean that everyone in Vancouver was happy, but there was an ease in the streets, a sense that people expected something pleasurable might happen to them. After three years of allowing another person’s darkness to occupy too much space in my own life, I noticed that ease immediately, probably because I had begun to want it again.

We returned to Portland carrying our luggage and the residue of a good weekend — the pleasant exhaustion, the private memories, the feeling that life might be easier somewhere else. That feeling was confirmed before we even reached our front door.

The contrast was immediate. The despair I had grown accustomed to now felt heavier, as though something in the city had hardened. Vancouver had reminded me what it felt like to move through streets animated by pleasure and possibility. Back in Portland, the atmosphere felt different: frayed, angry, unpredictable. What happened next seemed to confirm everything I was feeling.

Outside our building, a young man was destroying the thin trees planted along the sidewalk. They were hardly grand trees, just skinny urban saplings held upright by stakes, the kind cities plant as small declarations of faith in the future. He was breaking them deliberately.

David told him to stop. The man turned.

He was much younger than David, larger, perhaps forty years his junior. For a second there was only that primitive calculation one makes when a stranger begins moving toward you and you realize the ordinary rules governing public life have disappeared.

Then he hit David in the face.

I dropped the luggage and reached for my phone. Before I could do much of anything, another man—a stranger, younger and fitter than either of us—came running. He chased the attacker away.

Then there was silence. David’s nose was bleeding, but it wasn’t broken. We stood there on the sidewalk beside our luggage and the damaged trees, taking inventory of what had happened. A few seconds earlier we had been travelers coming home from a weekend away. Now we were two men confronting the strange fact that violence can enter an ordinary afternoon without invitation.

Something else had happened, too. I wasn’t afraid.

Or perhaps that isn’t quite right. Fear was there, but it no longer had the authority I had been giving it. Standing beside David on that Portland sidewalk, I understood something I had failed to understand during those three years with River: being compassionate does not require being passive. Understanding another person’s suffering does not obligate you to become its casualty. There are moments when turning away is wisdom, and there are moments when refusing to turn away is wisdom too.

River had humbled me. I can admit that now. He forced me to see the limits of my own compassion and the danger of confusing endurance with strength. Canada reminded me of something equally important: the self I thought had been destroyed was not gone. It had simply been buried beneath all that forgiving and hoping.

I had spent enough time examining my failures. I knew where I had been weak. I knew where I had surrendered ground. I knew the difference now between compassion and capitulation.

The trees outside our building would have to be replaced. David’s nose would heal. Vancouver remained across the border, glittering in memory, while Portland was still our city, damaged and difficult and asking something of us. I picked up the luggage.

The age of reflection was over. The age of action had begun.

I had spent enough time examining my failures. I knew where I had been weak. I knew where I had surrendered ground. I knew the difference now between compassion and capitulation.





Interrogated and Admitted

30 10 2013

The bus driver stared through the glass doors at me, looking down every so often at his watch. He was waiting on me — and so were 20 some other people sitting on the Cantrail bus.

Meanwhile, the border patrolman continued his interrogation.

“John, you sell your stories, right?” he asked. “Yes,” I replied, and then I began to give him more background on my career before he stopped me again.

“And what are you doing in Canada?,” he asked.

Again, I had no plans. This trip was more of a whim. I was this close, staying with a dear friend in Seattle, why not? Actually, I had always thought my first excursion into Canada would be into Quebec or Ontario. British Columbia, however, was proving to be difficult.

I told the officer I was planning on seeing two new friends for dinner that night in Vancouver. I had never met these gentlemen and that was part of the intrigue. One being a Canadian citizen, the other from Indonesia.

“How did you meet them?,” the officer asked, now sitting down in front of his computer behind the counter, no friendly expression on his face. To my left, through the glass doors, the bus driver began to pace. No doubt pissed with this situation and probably hankering for a cigarette.

“I only know them through the internet,” I explained. “This will be the first time we’ve met.”

At the border

At the border

This ticked off the officer even more. He demanded the address of the restaurant and immediately looked it up on his computer. It was a pizza place near the bus station.

“You don’t have a hotel reservation, you can’t tell me who you are here to see and I don’t know how you are getting back,” the officer declared. “I don’t know, John, this all sounds suspicious.”

He wanted my airline reservation back to Florida, but I was not letting him into that e-mail account. He then went for the holy grail — Facebook.

“Let me see it,” he said, demanding the i-phone. “I have one of these too.”

Suddenly, the bus driver came through the glass doors.

“How much longer we got here,” he asked the officer, while another Canadian guard, a black man about my age, walked past me and into the office behind the counter. He stared at me while he passed. I smiled and he continued on his way, but I did not want to see where he was going and I had had just about enough of this situation.

“I wanted to write about your beautiful country. This is my first time here,” I said.

The officer told the bus driver a few more minutes and turned his attention back to me. “I’m sure, John, if I was to come to Panama City you would want to know about me,” he sarcastically said.

“I would welcome you,” I said. “We are allies, after all.”

This was the one time during the course of his interrogation where we agreed. Scanning through my Facebook account, he asked what I wrote about in Panama City. I recalled one of my last assignments at the News-Herald when I reported on a murder case at a bayside motel. I told the officer I had always maintained a professional and courtesy relationship with the police.

“Why don’t you join them?,” he then asked, again with a sarcastic, yet serious tone. I had no answer.

He didn’t need one.

“Okay John, I’m going to let you in,” he declared, getting up out of his chair and handing me my passport back. “But make sure you don’t miss that flight back to Florida.”

Some welcome.

He then gave me my i-phone back, remarking “It looks like you like to hike a lot.”

I felt so defeated. I met the bus driver outside and we walked to the bus together without uttering a word between us. I was greeted by a strange silence as I climbed aboard the bus again. Some glances thrown my way but no one spoke. Before I could take a seat in the back, the driver loudly announced, “Next stop, Vancouver.”

At the station, I waited for the driver to unload everyone’s luggage before approaching and giving him a nice tip. He smiled and shook his head, “That’s the world we live in, kid,” he said.

Politically, tensions abroad were running high as the United States weighed its military options on Syria while a covert war raged across Africa. My first order of business in Canada was to the Greyhound Bus terminal to purchase a ticket back to Seattle. I would have less than 24 hours to celebrate Canadian liberty and I was damn determined to make the time count.

Keep Exploring

Keep Exploring





Border Bliz

12 10 2013

My first visit to Canada almost did not happen. It gave me pause, literally.

Still in Seattle celebrating the end to a four-month long and arduous government contract, I decided to take a trip and see what our neighbors to the north were like. Ryan had to work so I was on my own. He recommended taking this “bullet bus” that cost just 20 bucks, but I stubbornly ignored him, intent on purchasing my fare from the Amtrak Station. It took a couple buses to get there as the station was located near the NFL football stadium and, by chance, there was a game that day. Seattle has a good team this year. The Seahawks they are called.

Of course it was raining.

The station was elegantly designed and the Amtrak tellers sharply dressed in their vests and ties. I showed the Ginger behind the window my passport and bought a one-way ticket to Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. As we waited, the rain continued to fall and Seahawks fans filled the terminal. Leaving around midday meant that I would not be taking a train, but rather a bus. I quickly made friends with the driver.

“Is there a bar on this thing?” I asked.

“You’ve had enough,” he shot back with a grin. The driver had a stomach that overhung his belt. It looked like blubber. He also chain-smoked. But he would ultimately come to my aid. The bus didn’t even display the company markings of Amtrak — “Cantrail,” it read on the side in big green letters. It was about half full of Canadians and Americans. As we left, the crowd from neighboring Century Link Field roared with the excitement of the Seahawks doing battle against the visiting Jacksonville Jaguars.

“What’s that sound?,” one young lady asked, oblivious to the sports world.

I sat near the back, wearing Levi blue jeans, a white and tan plaid shirt, my trusty Columbia hiking boots and Yellowstone ball cap. I had just my black hiking backpack with me. Someone on a previous trip had even left a copy of the Vancouver Weekly in the seat so I perused it while filling out customs form. The entertainment ads were quite impressive. Everything was perfect.

And then we stopped at the border.

Everyone had to get off the bus and go through a border “security” line. Posted directions were in English and French. The first border patrol officer, in his 40s, tall and resembling an Indian, perhaps, with dark black hair and brown complexion, asked me where I was going. “Vancouver,” I responded. He looked at my passport and asked me who I was going to see. “Friends,” I responded.

“How did you meet these friends,” the officer asked.

“On the internet,” I replied.

“What website?,” the officer asked.

And without thinking … “Instagram,” I replied.

This answer prompted him to send me into the office behind him, while everyone else on the bus was allowed to exit stage left and reboard. The next border patrol officer, from behind a counter, stood up to greet me as soon as I walked in — asking my occupation, who I worked for and what I was doing in Canada. I explained I had recently finished an assignment in Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming and was traveling on vacation and while I was a freelance journalist, I had no itinerary and, more troubling to him, no hotel reservations.

“All this sounds suspicious,” the officer said. He was younger than the first guard and had much more of a dominant attitude. Caucasian, 6-foot-5, blond buzz cut. He didn’t like me. “Give me the address of where your friends live,” he continued.

I didn’t have it.

Frustrated, the Canadian pressed forward.

“What kind of articles do you write?”

“Travel and adventure,” I replied. And this was certainly turning into just that. The officer, dressed in cobalt fatigues with the name “Anderson” etched across his left chest, continued his questioning as the rest of my fellow travelers sat on the bus waiting.

“I can’t believe you don’t have a address or a hotel reservation. Do you have a ticket back to Florida?”

I did, but I did not have a way of showing him. My I-phone was jammed. No signal. Now, I felt he was clearly playing games. He made it clear that he did not want me to overstay my welcome and enroll for Canada’s “social services.” I told him we had this issue in America and I assured him this would not happen. I then complained that I had recently traveled to Italy and getting in was not nearly like this.

“Yeah, well, Europe has a lot more lax standards,” he said.

The interrogation would continue.